In July because I really don’t feel like it I decided to cross an item off my To Cook list that had been there since 2010: a golden brown bubbling layered dish of mushrooms cabbage thinly sliced potatoes thickened with a béchamel sauce and topped with cheese. Talk about beach food!
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How to make coleslaw Low carb and delicious
But a craving is a craving and I made it thinking we could try it and freeze the rest until that whole December-January zone when the sun sets around 3:32pm and the only way to bear it is to channel some Scandinavian coziness and make it as fashion. Candles! Chunky sweaters! Tea a good book and soft music. Long-cooked winter vegetables snuggled in a rich casserole.
Instead we ate it over the course of a few days because it’s truly amazing. The recipe comes from Marcus Jernmark the Swedish chef who at the time ran Aquavit a chic Scandinavian restaurant in Midtown. The recipe ended up in a short-lived New York Times column by Elaine Louie called “The Temporary Vegetarian” which I followed with devotion. It’s not that a decade ago was a dark time for vegetarians but the column had a fresh feel to it focusing on vegetable-heavy variety-oriented dishes with home cooks in mind a few years ahead of its time. (It later became a book.)
Jernmark explained that in Sweden they eat cabbage kale and mushrooms in the fall and he wanted to make it a seasonal homey version of lasagna. Being a pedant I’m not entirely convinced by the name. It looks more like a potato and vegetable gratin than anything else but I’ll let it stand because it’s layered and I have a soft spot for lasagnas outside of the red sauce and ricotta cheese box anyway.
