Three Days and a Pit Oven: How the Best Barbacoa is Made

Three Days and a Pit Oven: How the Best Barbacoa is Made

HomeCooking Tips, RecipesThree Days and a Pit Oven: How the Best Barbacoa is Made

A look into the work and love that goes into preparing traditional lamb barbacoa at a family-run restaurant in Mexico City.

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Channel Avatar Insider Food2023-04-21 21:47:03 Thumbnail
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This is how 500 pounds of traditional Mexican barbacoa is made. #barbacoa #chilies #mexicanfood

Serious Eats / Naomi Tomky

The opposite of the world’s greatest delicacies is Hidalgo-style barbacoa. The whole lamb is cooked overnight in its own juices wrapped in agave leaves over low heat emerging sticky with fat and infused with charcoal smoke and lightly charred leaves ready to be shredded and wrapped in warm tortillas for hungry diners.

I first fell in love with the meltingly tender meat in a small town outside of Querétaro Mexico. In the 15 years since I found the best barbacoa it’s become something of a mission for me. I’ve returned to San Juan del Río where I first found it and explored the sprawling metropolis of Mexico City and its environs specifically for the dish. I’ve even sought it out across the U.S. in Seattle Austin and Los Angeles.